Surfing: a story

img_1149

There’s a lot of things that surfing isn’t and one main thing that it is.

 

See, it’s not necessarily about taking your chances or risking it all, though there are a handful of surfers that do, and they do it very well.

You don’t have to put everything on the line, every time you paddle out.

It’s not about the outdoor, care-free “look” AND it’s not about what it means to anyone else.

 

It’s not about a lot of things, and it’s a lot about one thing..

 

Sending it.

ALL. DAY. LONG.

Ha, kidding.

 

Maybe it’s not about being Laird Hamilton though his passion and dedication are inspiring. Or on the flipside, trying to get on kookslams for your daring stunts stupidity.

Maybe its not about snapping photos or emulating a style.

And maybe it’s not even the nature of what we do when we’re out in the wild, even though we know we’re counting on our raw awareness and inner-primal instinct to pick our way through the madness, the often crowded lineups of our favorite spots.

 

Maybe it is about something much simpler.

img_1147

For me, it’s about the connection.

It’s the connection I feel riding a wave. 2-3ft of crumbling liquid as I glide my 8’ log is just as glorious a day in the summer as that crashing peeler I snag at the end of September on my 5’8” fish, laying into that first bottom turn and looking down the line. It’s not about the size of the waves, nor the looks from the beach. There’s something bigger that I feel when I’m out in the ocean that no one can take away from me.

The beautiful thing about surfing, is that it’s whatever you want it to be.

img_1153

Everyone has a different story with surfing; some are of finding peace; some are stories of healing; others are of simply wanting to enjoy a sport, just beginning to take those first steps into something bigger. Whichever way you cut it, surfing is transformational in the way we experience and grow with the water. In the way we experience nature in the waves.

Whichever way you cut it, surfing is transformational

 

My story is one of living in nature and with nature, following it’s ebbs and flows as it provides. The story of surfing is what you make it, whether you’re taking a long ride or just catching that first crumbler into shore.

 

The story of surfing, is you.

 

 

 

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: